The Amalfi Coast is 50km of cliff road above the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the single most important planning decision is where you base yourself, because moving along it is slow and unpleasant in peak season.
Where to base yourself
- Positano. The postcard. Vertical, beautiful, expensive, and built entirely of steps. Avoid if stairs are a problem.
- Amalfi. Flatter, more central for ferries and buses, better value, less glamorous.
- Ravello. High above the coast, quieter, cooler, with the best gardens and views. Requires a bus down to the water.
- Sorrento. Technically not the Amalfi Coast, but the best transport hub and the cheapest base. Good choice for a first visit.
- Praiano. Between Positano and Amalfi, residential, far quieter, excellent value.
Getting around
Do not rent a car unless you are confident on narrow cliff roads and have prepaid parking. Traffic is severe from June to September and parking is scarce and expensive.
Ferries are the best option in season: faster than buses, no motion sickness on the hairpins, and the coastline looks better from the water. SITA buses are cheap and crowded. Book a private transfer from Naples airport rather than attempting the connection with luggage.
What to actually do
- Path of the Gods. The clifftop trail from Bomerano to Nocelle. Around three hours, and the best thing on the coast. Walk it downhill, west to east, and start early.
- Villa Cimbrone and Villa Rufolo, Ravello. The Terrace of Infinity is the view everyone photographs.
- Amalfi Duomo. The cloister and crypt are worth the entry.
- Capri as a day trip. Ferry from Positano or Sorrento. Go early, take the chairlift up Monte Solaro.
- Pompeii and Herculaneum. Herculaneum is smaller, better preserved and far less crowded.
- Furore Fjord and Fiordo di Crapolla. The less obvious swimming spots.
When to go
May, early June, late September and October. July and August are hot, extremely crowded and priced accordingly. Many businesses close from November to March, and ferry services reduce sharply.
Food notes
Sfusato lemons, colatura di alici from Cetara, scialatielli ai frutti di mare, and delizia al limone. Cetara is where to eat seafood without the Positano markup.
A five day plan
Two nights Sorrento with a Pompeii day, two nights Positano or Praiano with the Path of the Gods, one night Ravello. Add Capri if you have a sixth day.
For the wider country, see the best places to visit in Italy for first time travellers.
The Amalfi Coast ranks among the best romantic getaways in Europe for couples.