Lisbon has stopped being a hidden gem, which is worth saying plainly. It is now one of the busier city breaks in Europe and prices have risen sharply. It is still excellent, provided you go slightly beyond the two neighbourhoods everyone visits.

Pastel houses above the water in Portugal
Photo by Louis Droege on Unsplash

The essential neighbourhoods

  • Alfama. The medieval quarter that survived the 1755 earthquake. Steep, tangled, and best walked without a route. Fado bars in the evening.
  • Baixa and Chiado. The rebuilt grid downtown, with the Santa Justa lift and the main shopping streets.
  • Bairro Alto. Quiet by day, the centre of nightlife after 10pm.
  • Belem. The monastery, the tower, and the original pasteis de nata. A tram or bus ride west.
  • Principe Real and Graca. Where to go when the above are full. Graca has the best viewpoints and a fraction of the crowd.

Viewpoints

Lisbon is built on hills and the miradouros are the defining experience. Senhora do Monte for the widest view, Santa Catarina for sunset over the river, Portas do Sol over Alfama’s rooftops. All free, all better an hour before sunset.

Trams and transport

Tram 28 is famous and consequently packed and heavily pickpocketed. Ride tram 12 or catch 28 at the Martim Moniz terminus early morning if you want the experience. Otherwise the metro is fast and cheap, and the funiculars save the steepest climbs.

Day trips

  • Sintra. Palaces in the hills, 40 minutes by train. Pena Palace requires timed tickets booked ahead. Go early or it is a queue.
  • Cascais. Coastal town, 40 minutes, good beaches.
  • Setubal and Arrabida. Better beaches, far fewer visitors.
  • Obidos. A walled town about an hour north.

Eating

Bacalhau in its many forms, grilled sardines in summer, bifana sandwiches, and pasteis de nata eaten warm with cinnamon. Time Out Market is convenient and expensive; the tascas in Graca and Campo de Ourique are where the value is.

Practical notes

  • The hills are serious. Comfortable shoes matter more here than in most cities.
  • Calcada paving is slippery in rain.
  • Pickpocketing on tram 28 and in crowded areas is the main safety issue.
  • March to May and September to October are ideal. August is hot and very crowded.
  • Three to four days for the city, plus one for Sintra.

See also the best places to visit in Spain.

Lisbon is one of our top picks in the best romantic getaways in Europe for couples.