This Nepal travel guide is for anyone weighing up a first trip: what to see in Kathmandu and Pokhara, which Himalayan treks suit which fitness level, when the weather cooperates, and what it realistically costs. Nepal rewards slow travel. The mountains get the headlines, but the temples, the food and the rhythm of daily life are what many visitors remember longest.
The country packs huge variety into a small area, from subtropical jungle on the Indian border to peaks above 8,000 metres a few days’ travel north. Getting around takes patience, since roads are winding and mountain flights depend on the weather, so build slack into your plans and treat delays as part of the experience.
Kathmandu: Temples, Stupas and Street Life
Plan on two to three days in Kathmandu, both to see the city and to adjust before heading up to altitude. Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple, sits on a hilltop with sweeping views over the valley, and the climb up its stone steps is part of the experience. Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest in the world, is at its best around dawn and dusk when pilgrims walk the kora, the circular path around the dome, spinning prayer wheels.
Pashupatinath, a major Hindu temple complex on the Bagmati River, is an intense and moving place; visit respectfully and ask before photographing ceremonies. Durbar Square has been under restoration since the 2015 earthquake, so expect scaffolding alongside the carved woodwork. Thamel is the backpacker and gear district, noisy and crowded but useful for last-minute supplies. Add a half day in nearby Patan or Bhaktapur, both with beautiful Newari brick-and-timber architecture and far calmer streets.
Trekking in Nepal for Every Fitness Level
Most visitors come for the walking, and the range of routes is wider than the famous names suggest. Everest Base Camp (roughly 12 to 14 days return) and the Annapurna Circuit (around 15 to 20 days, though road building has led many people to trek shorter sections) are the two headline treks. Both are demanding but achievable for reasonably fit walkers without any technical climbing skill, provided you allow enough acclimatisation time.
For a shorter taste, the Poon Hill trek near Pokhara takes about four to five days and tops out at roughly 3,200 metres, with sunrise views over the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. It suits first-time trekkers well. Other options include the Langtang valley, which is closer to Kathmandu and rebuilding after the 2015 earthquake, and the Annapurna Base Camp route, which sits between Poon Hill and the big circuits in difficulty. Most routes run through teahouses, simple lodges where you sleep and eat each night, so you carry a daypack rather than a tent.
Pokhara: Lakeside Calm Before or After the Mountains
Pokhara is a noticeably slower town than Kathmandu, set on Phewa Lake with the Annapurna range visible on clear mornings. Most Annapurna region treks start from here, and it is a good place to rest sore legs afterwards. Rent a rowing boat to the small island temple, walk up to the World Peace Pagoda for lake and mountain views, or simply sit in a lakeside cafe.
Adventure activities are popular, including paragliding from Sarangkot, which many travellers rate among the better-value flights in the world. Count on two to three days. You can reach Pokhara from Kathmandu by a short flight or a tourist bus that usually takes seven to eight hours depending on traffic and landslides.
Beyond the Mountains: Chitwan and Lumbini
If you have a week or more beyond trekking, the lowland Terai region offers a very different Nepal. Chitwan National Park is known for one-horned rhinos, deer, crocodiles and a rich birdlife; Bengal tigers live there too but are rarely seen, so go for the rhinos and the jungle atmosphere. Walking safaris and canoe trips are usually guided by local naturalists.
Lumbini, close to the Indian border, is the traditional birthplace of the Buddha. The quiet gardens hold monasteries built by Buddhist communities from many countries and feel very different from the bustle of Kathmandu. It is a rewarding stop for travellers interested in history and religion, and fits well into a longer itinerary. If temple-rich destinations appeal, our Angkor Wat guide covers another one worth planning around.
When to Go: Seasons and Weather
October to November and March to April are the two prime windows for mountain trips. Autumn usually brings the clearest skies and most stable weather after the monsoon, though trails are busy. Spring brings warmer days and rhododendron blooms on the lower slopes, with slightly hazier views.
The monsoon from June to September makes trekking miserable and sometimes dangerous, with leeches, landslides and clouded-over views, although the Himalayan rain-shadow regions such as Upper Mustang and Dolpo stay drier. December to February is cold but clear at lower elevations, and high passes may be closed by snow. Kathmandu and Pokhara are pleasant for sightseeing across most of the year apart from the heaviest monsoon weeks.
What Nepal Costs: Realistic Budget Ranges
Nepal remains good value, though prices have crept up in popular trekking areas. These figures are rough estimates and vary with season, exchange rates and how you travel.
On teahouse routes, a budget trekker can often manage roughly 25 to 45 euros a day for a bed, meals and drinks, with prices rising the higher and more remote you go. A licensed guide commonly costs somewhere around 25 to 40 euros a day, and porters a little less. In Kathmandu, simple guesthouses start at only a few euros while comfortable mid-range hotels often fall between 30 and 70 euros a night. A Kathmandu to Pokhara flight might run around 80 to 130 euros one way, whereas the tourist bus costs a fraction of that.
Permit fees change regularly and depend on the region, so check current figures with your agency. If you are travelling on a tight budget, our guides to affording solo travel and budget travel in Southeast Asia have money-saving habits that carry over well to Nepal.
Nepal Travel Guide Essentials: Permits, Safety and Altitude
Most nationalities can get a tourist visa on arrival at Kathmandu airport or apply online in advance, but rules and fees change, so confirm before you fly; our visa guide explains how to check entry requirements. Trekking requires permits, and rules on using a licensed guide have been tightening in many areas, so arrange everything through a registered trekking agency in Kathmandu. The official Nepal Tourism Board site is a sensible place to confirm current regulations.
Altitude sickness is a real risk above about 3,000 metres regardless of fitness. A widely used rule is to avoid raising your sleeping altitude by more than around 500 metres a day once above 3,000 metres, with a rest day every third or fourth night. Descend if symptoms like severe headache, vomiting or confusion worsen. Choose a policy that explicitly covers trekking at your maximum altitude and helicopter evacuation; our travel insurance guide explains what to look for. Pack layers, a good sleeping bag liner, water purification tablets and broken-in boots.
A Sample 14-Day Itinerary
Spend days one to three in Kathmandu, covering Swayambhunath, Boudhanath and Pashupatinath, with a day trip to Patan or Bhaktapur if energy allows. Fly or take a bus to Pokhara on day four, rest by the lake, then start the Poon Hill trek on day five and finish around day nine. That leaves time to recover in Pokhara before heading to Chitwan for two nights of jungle walks and canoe rides.
Return to Kathmandu by tourist bus or short flight for your last night or two, using the spare time to buy souvenirs such as handmade paper, singing bowls or woollen goods, and to eat momos and dal bhat, Nepal’s staple meal of lentils, rice and vegetable curry, which usually comes with generous refills. Keep one flexible day somewhere in the plan, because weather delays on mountain flights and landslide-blocked roads are common and easily ruin a tight schedule.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days do you need in Nepal?
Ten days is enough for Kathmandu, Pokhara and a short trek like Poon Hill. Two weeks gives you comfortable breathing room, while Everest Base Camp or the Annapurna Circuit realistically need three weeks including arrival, acclimatisation and buffer days for weather delays and flight changes.
Is Nepal safe for tourists?
Nepal is generally considered welcoming and relatively safe, with petty theft and scams the main nuisances in tourist areas. The bigger risks are altitude, weather and road conditions. Use registered agencies, tell someone your route, avoid trekking alone on remote trails, and carry insurance that covers evacuation.
Do I need a guide to trek in Nepal?
Regulations have been shifting, and many trekking areas now require a licensed guide or registration through an agency, particularly for remote regions. Even where it is optional, a guide improves safety and supports local livelihoods. Check current rules with a registered Kathmandu agency before booking.
What is the best month to visit Nepal?
October and November are usually considered the best, with clear skies and stable weather after the monsoon. March and April are a strong second choice, with warmer temperatures and flowering rhododendrons. Both periods are busy, so book flights and lodging well in advance.