Angkor is far larger than most visitors expect. The temple complex covers around 400 square kilometres, and the common mistake is buying a one day pass, seeing three temples in punishing heat, and concluding it was overrated.

Planning Angkor properly

Passes are sold for one, three or seven days. The three day pass, usable across a week, is the right choice for almost everyone. Buy it at the official ticket centre or online; tickets are photo-linked and non-transferable.

Day one: the small circuit

Angkor Wat at sunrise, then Angkor Thom and the Bayon with its carved faces, Baphuon, and the Terrace of the Elephants. Finish at Ta Prohm, the temple with trees growing through the stonework.

Day two: the grand circuit

Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som and East Mebon. Far quieter, and Preah Khan is many visitors’ favourite once the crowds are gone.

Day three: further out

Banteay Srei, an hour away, with the finest carving in the whole complex in pink sandstone. Combine with Kbal Spean, the river of a thousand lingas. Beng Mealea if you want a genuinely unrestored ruin.

Beating heat and crowds

  • Start at 5am. Temperatures climb sharply after 10am and the tour buses arrive around 8.
  • Rest between roughly 11am and 2pm. Everyone who ignores this regrets it.
  • Sunrise at Angkor Wat is crowded; sunrise at Srah Srang or Bayon is not.
  • Hire a tuk-tuk driver for the full day rather than per journey.
  • Carry far more water than feels necessary.

Siem Reap

The base town has grown into a proper destination. The Cambodia Landmine Museum, Artisans Angkor workshops, Phare circus, and the floating villages on Tonle Sap. Give it two evenings at least.

Beyond Siem Reap

A full Cambodia trip adds Phnom Penh for the Royal Palace and the Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek memorial sites, which are harrowing and important. Then Kampot, Kep, or the southern islands of Koh Rong for the coast. Ten to fourteen days covers the country comfortably.

Practical notes

  • E-visa available online for most nationalities.
  • US dollars are used alongside riel; carry small denominations and clean notes.
  • Dress code at temples requires shoulders and knees covered, and it is enforced at Angkor Wat.
  • November to February is dry and cooler. March to May is extremely hot. The wet season brings dramatic skies and green moats.

See also the Vietnam travel guide.